The Gobi isn't really a desert at all. Most of it is arid steppe, with only a small stretch of sand dunes that comply with our image of a desert.
Peopling the vast expanses are nomad families, their sheep, goats, camels, horses and barking dogs.
Some live barebones lives, virtually self-sufficient, relying on their animals and their wits to survive. Others are upwardly mobile, owning livestock, motorbikes, vans and satellite dishes that beam Baywatch to their gers.
I trekked for nine days in the Gobi, going from well to well, and climbing the odd peak on the way. We trekked from north to south, and on my last day, reached the dunes.